Posts Tagged ‘tevo’

2017 Tevo Tarantula Dual Extruder 3D Printer Review – Part 2: Auto-Leveling, Dual Color Prints, Flex Filament

September 2nd, 2017 4 comments

Karl here with final part of Tevo Tarantula dual extruder 3D printer review. The kit that was sent by Gearbest has a large bed, auto leveling, dual extrusion, and flex extruder of which I only found the flex extruder appealing to me. I have had this printer for a while now. It was relatively easy to setup, but near the end of the build it did not cover every aspect. There are lots of videos and a big Facebook group if you run into any troubles. Overall it is a good printer, but some of the features I initially thought I would like turned out to not be very useful.

Auto leveling

I tried my hardest to get this to work even going as far as to upgrade the firmware, but because they had a printed bracket on it, it drooped on my first high temp ABS print. I removed it immediately because it made me angry. It was not worth the hassle to me. Leveling by hand is done infrequently and can be done very quickly. I installed a piece of glass on my bed and it makes it even easier because you can see the space between the nozzle and the glass. I saw a post a while back where someone sanded their mirror with sandpaper, and they no longer needed glue, and it works well. I only had to use glue on the dinosaur head below with all the thin supports. I tried my best to get auto leveling working but IMHO, it is not worth the extra money.

Dual Extrusion

In theory, it looks good but is a terrible pain with 2 separate nozzles. 3D printing is not the easiest as it is but now with 2 nozzles side by side, printing with dual extruder is difficult. I was able to print the 2 color tree frog after multiple attempts. And tried a couple other things from Thingiverse. In my mind now, if I want to have 2 colors I will just paint the piece. I purchased soluble HIPS but never got around to printing with it. I ordered in a rus,h and thought it was water soluble but it is soluble in Limonene and I am in no hurry to buy. Limonene is pretty expensive and nasty sounding stuff. Not impressed with dual extrusion right now, and another unneeded upgrade.

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Flex Extruder

Now for the flex extruder. It was the only upgrade that I found useful. I purchased some flexible PLA and tested with the stock extruder. It jammed every time. After upgrading, I went on to print flexible filament with no issues. Flexible filament is more expensive so I only printed 2 things with it. (one of my kids stole the benchy so I don’t have a picture of it. It printed fine with the exception of the stack on top broke off. This upgrade is worth it, and works if you are wanting to print flexible filament.

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Fusion 360

This is not really part of the review, but I wanted to share how satisfying it is to make things in AutoDesk Fusion 360. I am currently designing some useful parts for another printer from scratch, instead of mixing models together and some car parts. It is extremely powerful and definitely worth learning. Tinkercad is good for basic stuff, and I will continue to use it, but for more elaborate parts Fusion 360 is the way to go. The parametric modeling and timeline feature blows my mind. If you need to make a change roll back the timeline make the change then all the subsequent tools update magically. There are a ton of videos on YouTube if you are interested. I settled on Lars Christensen to learn basics. It is fun printing, but designing an object from ground up is just fantastic, and goes hand in hand with 3D printing.

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More 3D Print Samples

All the prints below were printed with ZYLtech filament with the exception of the flexible filament. If you are in the US definitely check them out. I picked up 3 rolls for $30 + shipping with a coupon code I got in one of the Facebook groups. I also signed up for the newsletter, and they send out coupon codes periodically. At the time of this writing you can get free shipping if you spend $75 or more.

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For regular printing, it prints very well and easy to print with. Heats up fast. There is a big community behind this printer so there are many mods/upgrades, but it prints pretty well out of the box. There are a lot of solid parts with the kit. The board is really good and well documented making it easy to upgrade firmware. All the acrylic parts can be printed to sturdy the frame up if you desire. I did break my Z bracket, but was able to glue it back long enough to print replacement. If I was in the market I would get the base model (~$240 – Coupon TE3DIT may lower the price), or the next step up with the larger bed (~$255). The model I reviewed with the complete options (large bed, dual extruder for bi-color prints, and auto-leveling) costs $418.59 includding worldwide shipping, but the if you use TEVODUAL coupon, the price will go down to $349.99.

Tevo Tarantula 3D Printer’s Large Dual Extruder Auto Bed Level Sensor Firmware Upgrade

July 17th, 2017 No comments

What a title. Just a quick update on the Tevo I am reviewing. I didn’t want to upgrade the firmware, but I read so many posts on Facebook about it I took the plunge. I didn’t like was the firmware that came with it. It only did a 3 point level, and seemed to go outside the build plate dimensions. The first 2 printers I have reviewed were Marlin, so it was what I am most familiar with.

I used Jim Brown’s Marlin fork as a base. It was missing dual extruder and auto level sensor in the pre-configured profiles. It took a while, but I was able to add the extra features. The auto bed level sensor connects to where the normal Z end stop sensor is connected. I would like to warn you to warm your bed for 5 minutes for the best reproducible results. I tested several times from cold to hot, and can see variances. After it is warm, it does well and only varies in the thousands of a mm. I also found out I made and dumb mistake, and I never set the power supply to my country’s proper voltage. It was messing everything up including the auto level.

Testing the auto level as it warms up. You can see variances and the metal expands.

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.340 +0.292 +0.317 +0.380
Recv: 1 +0.418 +0.342 +0.338 +0.392
Recv: 2 +0.494 +0.408 +0.381 +0.396
Recv: 3 +0.545 +0.457 +0.442 +0.499

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.307 +0.277 +0.308 +0.379
Recv: 1 +0.392 +0.327 +0.336 +0.372
Recv: 2 +0.492 +0.390 +0.367 +0.391
Recv: 3 +0.519 +0.447 +0.446 +0.488

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.302 +0.254 +0.298 +0.367
Recv: 1 +0.369 +0.313 +0.321 +0.369
Recv: 2 +0.459 +0.376 +0.348 +0.380
Recv: 3 +0.492 +0.431 +0.424 +0.473

Here you can see after letting it warm up they are relatively consistent.

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.019 -0.302 -0.492 -0.598
Recv: 1 +0.108 -0.259 -0.490 -0.618
Recv: 2 +0.186 -0.202 -0.468 -0.625
Recv: 3 +0.221 -0.171 -0.444 -0.606

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.013 -0.302 -0.488 -0.591
Recv: 1 +0.097 -0.261 -0.488 -0.615
Recv: 2 +0.173 -0.206 -0.466 -0.614
Recv: 3 +0.205 -0.177 -0.442 -0.601

Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3
Recv: 0 +0.004 -0.299 -0.483 -0.576
Recv: 1 +0.094 -0.255 -0.490 -0.615
Recv: 2 +0.163 -0.210 -0.466 -0.612
Recv: 3 +0.190 -0.186 -0.445 -0.600

This is a 16 point level so it takes a little bit of time but I think it is worth it.

To help with setting your sensor height you may want to look here. But in retrospect it might not be necessary. Set your sensor height just barely above the nozzle height and adjust with the Z offset in the menu’s. First initialize your EEPROM under Control at the bottom. Then go to Control -> Motion Z-offset. A negative number brings the head down and positive up. Print a small cube see how much closer to the bed you need to be. Adjust the offset until you get a good distance. Then store with Control -> Store Settings to lock it in.

I tested movement in X, Y, and Z directions, and they were spot on as well as the extruders. I homed then did a 100mm move and checked with my caliper. This was done in all directions. For the extruder I disconnected the bowden tube, then heated up the hotend due to protection then extruded 100mm of filament.

Here are the 2 separate files. Full is full Arduino 1.6.8 portable setup and ready. Pretty much run it, connect printer and upload. The second is just the configuration files. If you need the configuration I assume a write up is not necessary.

  1. Full
  2. Only Configuration

First connect your printer to your PC, and let Windows find the drivers. In device manager you should see it show up under comm ports. The first time I plugged it in I had to right click and tell windows to update the drivers. It went to the web, and found and updated them. Next, start Arduino then navigate to the Marlin directory, then open Marlin.ino. Ensure you have the correct board, processor, and port selected, then press the arrow pointing to the right to upload.

Once uploaded add G28 to home then G29 in your slicer.

You’ll find the first part of review in “2017 Tevo Tarantula Dual Extruder 3D Printer Review – Part 1: Assembly and First Prints” post..

I would like to thank Gearbest for sending this printer. If you are interested, you can purchase it on their store for $418.59 includding worldwide shipping. If you use TEVODUAL coupon, price will go down to $349.99. Note that there are various models of Tevo Tarantula with 200×200 or 200×280 (large) beds, single or dual extruder, with or without auto-leveling, and the one reviewed here is the higher end model with all a large bed, dual extruder for bi-color prints, auto-leveling, and flexible filament.

2017 Tevo Tarantula Dual Extruder 3D Printer Review – Part 1: Assembly and First Prints

July 5th, 2017 3 comments

Karl here. Going to review the Tevo Tarantula 3D printer a little differently this time. With this build process, I need to space over several days due to time and working on many projects at once. I am logging each session with dates and times. I rarely have big blocks of time to work on my projects with working a full time job, and 2 children. I think this is indicative of a lot of people so wanted to give it a try. If you like this format let me know. If you are new to 3D printing, I would suggest reading the 3D Printer Basics section from Raiscube R2 review.

Tevo Tarantula Specs

  • Bed Size – 200x280x200
  • Extruder – all metal dual color
  • Bed Leveling – Auto
  • Extruder Style – Bowden
  • Materials – Metal Frame with some Acrylic parts
  • Heated Bed – Yes
  • Filament – 1.75
  • Filament Included – 2 colors 0.5 kg each
  • Power Supply – 12V / 25A
  • Board – MKS Base 1.4

3D Printer Build Timeline

6.25.17 12:15-12:30

Getting started late, basic unboxing for tonight so won’t count it against build time.. Looking good so far. Manual looks excellent upon first look, but seems to be for single extruder. After sales card? Will monitor Facebook Group to see if it is real. One thing caught my eye is the heated bed is insulated from the factory. That is a plus.

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6.26.17 10:50-12:25 ~1.5hours

Really the first build session tonight. Spread all the parts around my work area in foam parts.Went smooth after I figured out I needed to look at the parts list, and to find some of the parts. All the small parts are in bags and labeled. The metal frame is called out on the left page, as well as the small parts but the acrylic pieces are not. Need to find the acrylic pieces by the picture. Once I figured that out the build sped up. Have to pay attention to orientation in the pictures. Only the orientation of the x axis stepper motor so far contradicts itself in the pictures. The bed is shown in the picture installed but kind of skips it on the page. I put the remaining piece parts in the bag for now. Will wait until end to install. Make it easier to install the belt. Also on the frame not really tightening everything until the end and make sure everything is square. If you never have worked with eccentric nuts, they are nuts that the hole in the center is off set.

They are used on the wheels and you turn them to tighten the wheels into the rails to get a nice smooth tight movement. One other non standard nut is the t-nut. They are used to connect the rails together. Loosely screw them on the screw and slide them in the groove and when you tighten the screw the nut turns until it locks in and finish tightening.

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6.27.17 11:10-1:25 ~2.25 hours

Starting the next steps. Should have been an easy uneventful night, but it was slow. I have the main frame together. Instructions differ because of the dual extrusion but with a little common sense it is was easy to overcome. I did have to resort to looking at the picture of the built system on the first page to get orientation. I had to widen 3 holes in the acrylic for the hotend to mount. I’m afraid my belts are too tight x and y are not the easiest to move. I’ll try stick stock at first but frame seems wobbly. Think a good candidate to mount on piece of plywood. Feeding the filament from the bottom is the way it shows to mount the extruder motors but isn’t good for my setup. I like to feed from above. I used 2 extra screws to stiffen the heated bed like in the Raiscube R2. I tightened everything up and ready for the electronics. Very late need to get some sleep.

6.28.17 6:55-1:00 5 hours

Going through the remaining bags and seeing what is in the instructions, and if not installing it. I installed z stepper motor parts and some bracing. Put together all the electronics. Had to do some guessing on what plugs in where. Most connections are modular. I tinned the main power from the power supply, so I didn’t have any stragglers, and have a short. The power to the heated bed seems to be 2 zones. Two wires are clamped together and are very close in the screw down terminal. There is no case for the power supply. After getting everything together I took it apart and reorganized extruder motors. I set on angles using one as a brace. There is a lot mounted on the right arm and very cramped for space. Removed screen from top and placed on top power supply. Wobbles printer too much, if printing. Can’t figure out how to mount auto level sensor. After turning on, I went through all the checks. Move x, Move y, Move z, home, and level the printbed, while it is warm. I had to flip the y stepper because moving in wrong direction, and corrected thermistor connection. First test print failed. I went all in, and did a 2 color frog from Thingiverse. Filament that came with seems like junk. Second print better but definitely needs cooling, and used some filament that I had. Missed a picture before mounting fan below.

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Build process is complete now, and it is a mess. Not too worried, until I get it printing. Printed parts cooler fan on Raiscube R2, and mounted it. Got some lithium grease from O’reilly Auto Parts to lube z axis screw. It was squealing, when it was moving up and down. I found the place to mount the auto level sensor, and it is on back of the extruder. Terrible place, but not sure where else to mount. Took everything apart and mounted it. Spent quite a bit of time to start printing, but can’t adjust without taking apart. Now to level I think I am going to see feasibility to drill a hole in x axis to get to the mounting screws to tweak the height. Z axis offset seems to get reset every time I set through the menu on the display. I connected fan for the parts cooler to the board and hotend fan directly to the power supply with the board cooling fan. It is very quiet, and my concerns with having too tight of belts was unwarranted. It moves freely and smoothly.


To tackle this auto level sensor, and try to drill tonight if it lines up with a cavity. Don’t think this is going to work now that I look, but will still give it a shot. I have some hex with the balls on the end, so going to hit it at an angle. Surprisingly it worked really well. Success. I am able to tighten and loosen the auto level sensor. Opened Cura added the G29 G-Code to auto bed level in the start script. But ran into issues. Had to use 3 lines. Home, raise 5mm then auto level. If the z was already in home position and started to auto level it would throw an error. If you try this drilling method be sure to remove the belt first.

I have also been doing research. Seems like everyone is upgrading firmware to the latest Marlin or Repetier. Tevo makes it surprisingly easy to upgrade. They kind of encourage it by hosting firmware. Not quite ready to do that yet. Hopefully get a first print tonight on stock.

Auto bed leveling seemed to work. Seems like it is only 3-point in this firmware. I think in most recent 3D printers 9-point bed leveling is standard. First layers seems good so far. Fan kicked in at the second level. Printing Benchy at 60mm per second. It didn’t turn out the greatest but it is a start. Slicing with latest Cura…Will slice with Craftware, and print again. Unfortunately I am forced to use Cura with 2 hotends. Craftware doesn’t support it.


Printing rocket first tonight sliced by Craftware. Will print Benchy again, when complete sliced by Craftware. I got fed up with the auto-level and back to manual leveling. It was too inconsistent. Sometimes seemed too close other times too far. Just a few prints with only minor tweaking. Biggest thing I have are little buggers on travel moves. Not stringing per say. Left benchy is Cura, Right is Craftware.

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First Impressions

So it took several days, and some tuning but it is printing. l still have some way to go. I thought I was going to like the auto leveling, but seems more of a hassle and not totally reliable. Manual leveling is not difficult. I have only printed on glass so using this surface to print on is pretty nice. No messy glue sticks and no warping so far. The manual was OK, but I had to infer some to build. The board is a MKS Base V1.4, and it is fully loaded with features. I am glad Tevo included a fan to cool it. I am surprised that a part cooling fan wasn’t included. It is a must to print in my opinion on any printer. The power supply is rated 25A, and when the heated bed and hotend turn on all the fans slow down considerably, so don’t know how true that is. I have some HIPS on the way as well as some flexible PLA. HIPS is a water soluble filament. I will use it for support via the second extruder. Once printed I will put it in a warm bucket of water and in theory it should dissolve and leave no trace of supports. I will also try some 2 color prints and flexible filament. I’m going to look at stiffening the frame as well. I only tracked my time for the initial build and it was about 9 hours. Then I had about 4-5 reconfiguring and test printing.

I would like to thank Gearbest for sending this printer. If you are interested, you can purchase it on their store for $418.59 includding worldwide shipping [Update: If you use TEVODUAL coupon, price will go down to $349.99]. Note that there are various models of Tevo Tarantula with 200×200 or 200×280 (large) beds, single or dual extruder, with or without auto-leveling, and the one reviewed here is the higher end model with all a large bed, dual extruder for bi-color prints, and auto-leveling.

[Update: Continue reading “2017 Tevo Tarantula Dual Extruder 3D Printer Review – Part 2: Auto-Leveling, Dual Color Prints, Flex Filament” ]