Sovol SV01 Upgrade with BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 Control Board

Sovol SV01 Upgrade: Bigtreetech SKR mini E3

Karl here with a quick upgrade guide. The one complaint I had in the review of the SV01 3D printer was it was loud. Today we are going to look at resolving part of the problem by replacing the Creality board with the BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V1.2 control board sold on Amazon for around $37. Fan noise at a later date. This board is ideal because the SD card, USB, and screws line up for nearly a perfect replacement. I did not bother hooking up the filament runout sensor. I have never found them particularly useful and always ensure I start with enough filament and bypassed it for the review. The board comes with TMC2209 drivers which significantly reduce the stepper motor noise as well as stop any salmon skin.

BTT SKR Mini E3
Click to Enlarge
BigtreeTech 3D Printer Control Board
Click to Enlarge

SKR Mini E3 Warning

This board is a replacement for the board found on the Ender 3. Below is from the manual. I purchased a clamp meter to test the bed for the SV01. The bed pulls 9.6 amps max or 230W and the Ender 3 bed is rated at 220W. After it reaches temp, it cycles 9.3 amps or 223 Watts on and off. The bed on the SV01 bulls about an extra .5 amp when initially heating up. 5% more…this may be within tolerance. I don’t think that this will be an issue. Do this upgrade at your own risk. I have had no problems. You have been warned. Note that an external MOSFET can resolve this issue completely. All power would route through the MOSFET and only use the Bigtreetech SKR Mini board for control.

SKR Mini E3 Warning

Wiring

One modification had to be done to wiring. There is only 1 Z output so you must splice the 2 connections down to 1 in parallel.

Z-Stepper Motors Modifications

All the below connect is not necessary. The screen has an exp3 connection on it with the correct pinout for the SKR mini E3. Take the connection from the E3 on the screen to the 10 pin connector on the board. No splicing necessary.

SKR Mini E3 LCD Connection
Click to Enlarge

screen connection diagram

3D printer cables
This test cable ended up being too short.

 

ribbon cable pin 1

Connections

BTT SKR Mini E3 PCB Layout
Click to Enlarge

All the rest of the connections just plug in. I didn’t even bother tracing the thermistors or fans and plugged them in. I started heating the hotend and if the wrong temp rises, swap. If the fans are backward just swap. I didn’t connect the fan that keeps the board itself cool and just left the plate that covers the bottom of the printer off for easy access. You can directly connect this fan to the power supply if needed.

Marlin

I used Marlin from Bigtreetech’s GitHub page and forked it here. You can download directly from my fork. If you are OK without a filament runout sensor, download the firmware.bin and place it on the SD card and boot up the printer. It will load the firmware that is on the SD card. There are many guides to compile and flash the firmware and won’t go in-depth here. I would imagine the maintainers of Marlin will take these changes for the board soon if they haven’t already.

Conclusion

I am very pleased with the upgrade to SKR Mini E3 board. Now the only thing that is too loud is the fan on the power supply. Fan noise doesn’t bother me as much as noisy steppers so I may leave it. I think it is because it is a constant sound versus one that goes up and down.

Support CNX Software - Donate via PayPal or become a Patron on Patreon

10
Leave a Reply

avatar
5 Comment threads
5 Thread replies
0 Followers
 
Most reacted comment
Hottest comment thread
5 Comment authors
OleKarlPeter MuellerKarl JohnsonDavid Willmore Recent comment authors
  Subscribe  
newest oldest most voted
Notify of
David Willmore
Guest
David Willmore

That’s a pretty good price for a board with four 2209’s on it! How did it perform? I’ve been upgrading a number of printers to 2208’s and it’s been a great improvement.

Willy
Guest
Willy

I also installed two 2209 in my laser engraver and it changed everything! No more leftover traces on PCBs from areas that were not accessible with the original steppers, and the silence is much appreciated, I’ve completely forgot about the noise the previous ones were making 🙂 Also I suspect that they better handle accelerations because on a few occasions in the past I got a few bad moves on multi-pass cutting of large figures requiring lots of traveling, indicating missed steps. It has never happened since the upgrade.

Ole
Guest
Ole

Nice article.

While the modifikation of display cable is not necessary, I like the information as I intend to change to a skr touchscreen with 12864 emulation. It does not have the special Ender3 connector, so the description is very helpful.

One point for z:
As far as I know, two stepper motors should not be put in parallel if it can be avoided, but in serial. While on 12v there is nothing else than parallel possible (so parallel connecting is very common) in 24V you can connect the steppers in serial.